Tips and tricks to replace waterpump

trackpilot · Post by **trackpilot** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 12:50 pm

I was going to have a local mustang shop replace my waterpump since it's leaking. But our availability schedules just aren't working. So how hard is it to do by myself?
Also does anyone know the difference between the ford racing part and the motorcraft part? The ford racing is only $45 vs $80 for the motorcraft waterpump.

tliss · Post by **tliss** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 12:57 pm

It is not hard, just we very careful not to break any bolts. Those bolts are long and easily broken from what I understand. Take your time. Also, be sure to scrape off all of the old gasket from the block as well before applying the new one.

The risk of breaking a bolt was enough for me to have someone else do it when I had to get the water pump changed. I hear it's a royal pain to deal with one of those broken bolts...

WillyB93 · Post by **WillyB93** » Tue Sep 04, 2012 4:26 pm

tliss wrote:It is not hard, just we very careful not to break any bolts. Those bolts are long and easily broken from what I understand. Take your time. Also, be sure to scrape off all of the old gasket from the block as well before applying the new one.

The risk of breaking a bolt was enough for me to have someone else do it when I had to get the water pump changed. I hear it's a royal pain to deal with one of those broken bolts...

Agree^^ with this comment, the ones that normally break are the one that go through the coolant flowing areas. Just take your time and don't force any of them. Is it leaking out of the seep hole or from the back area? Most commonly they leak where the backing plate mounts to the back of the water pump.

trackpilot · Post by **trackpilot** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 12:29 am

Oh man you guys have me nervous! lol I might just wait and have the shop do it. They said it'd be a 2 hour job. So $180 in labor plus whatever extras.
I'm not sure where it's leaking from to be honest. I'll have to check when i get home on Friday. But i do know it's already been replaced before because it has some orange gasket sealer around it. So it could just be the seal or it could be a crappy aftermarket waterpump that's already went bad???

redsvt · Post by **redsvt** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 8:11 am

a few things to remember are that the bolts that are known for breaking can be prevented by heating up slightly the water pump area with a propane torch. also replace the thermostat housing gasket and stat. it will be easier to get off with the pump off. on the water pumps the reason why the ford racing is cheaper is becuase it offers no warranty a motorcraft does. one other thing DO NOT USE gasket maker or anything like that just use the BLACK gasket so it retains the stock look. FORD never used a sealant maker to install the water pumps.

dont be nervous and take your time, you will happy with the end results.

Post by **1993cobra** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 9:07 am

If your has been changed before, it may have the weak bolts replaced or at least maybe it won't be to rusty or froze up, since the last time.

trackpilot · Post by **trackpilot** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 10:55 am

1993cobra wrote:If your has been changed before, it may have the weak bolts replaced or at least maybe it won't be to rusty or froze up, since the last time.

That's what i was also thinking that maybe they won't be froze up.

buddha · Post by **buddha** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 1:11 pm

Not hard like the others have said. I'd look at lining up a fresh set of bolts, as what you pull out can be pretty worn out, IE rust! The bitch is no one has made a correct OEM set that has the studs!

If you are bored, here is a thread about the bolts:

http://forums.corral.net/forums/5-0-5-8 ... st11023112

k98dave · Post by **k98dave** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 5:45 pm

Here are the replacement bolts and studs:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/ite ... tuds-Bolts

trackpilot · Post by **trackpilot** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 5:49 pm

k98dave wrote:Here are the replacement bolts and studs:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/ite ... tuds-Bolts

Yeah i saw those. That's pretty pricey for just the bolts! Hope i don't break mine!!!

k98dave · Post by **k98dave** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 6:02 pm

I have replaced several and what worked best for me was to slowly add a very little torque in the tighten direction, then reverse and add equal amount to loosen the bolts. But don't try to back them all the way out if the feel like they are sticking. Carefully work them about an 1/8 turn or less tighten and then loosen back & forth until they feel like they are freeing up. It will take some time as its can be a slow process but its better than breaking one.

buddha · Post by **buddha** » Wed Sep 05, 2012 7:35 pm

k98dave wrote:Here are the replacement bolts and studs:

http://www.latemodelrestoration.com/ite ... tuds-Bolts

Forgot they came out with those a year or so ago. I know it seems pricey, but for ARP stuff, it's not that far out.

trackpilot · Post by **trackpilot** » Fri Sep 07, 2012 8:30 pm

Do i need to put any sealant or anything on the timing cover plate to mount the water pump on or no? Just metal to metal contact?

WillyB93 · Post by **WillyB93** » Fri Sep 07, 2012 9:27 pm

Should have 2 gaskets one for the metal plate and one for the timing cover, might put a little sealant to paste the gaskets on and stay on when you try to put it back together.

buddha · Post by **buddha** » Fri Sep 07, 2012 9:35 pm

I've only ever done the paper without any problems.