1993 Cobra Registry

OK, so I am still piecing my Cobra back together. I just got all of the smog plumbing and pump back on and new exhaust. I had to go to one of those Mustang graveyards to get the back header bolt on the passenger side where the bracket for the exhaust return from the h-pipe attaches. Question I have is with so little room to work, how in the hell do you get that bolt set to hold the header?! I probably need three more full turns and it'll be there, and I have moved it slowly to where it is now, but can't get a damn wrench in there to grab it to save my life! Bought a racheting wrench in hopes that would help, but can't get the damn thing on the bolt thanks to the lack of space between the bolt and the header tube. Really don't wnat to have to take to top end apart if I can help it... And, of course, running the bolt on to hold the exhaust return bracket is probably going to at least as fun, if not funner, than this bolt! What tool will work here?

When it takes about an hour over two different days to get a bolt partially set, a guy tends to get a bit testy! I think I know what tool I need, I just don't know if it is something I am only dreaming of or if it is something I can actually get!

Thanks guys...feel so fricken retarded!

Tom

I take it a socket won't work either?

red95gts wrote:I take it a socket won't work either?

It'll need a deep socket since that bolt is a two-sided bolt. And being that it would be a deep socket, the smog equipment plumbing on that side provdes no clearance. I really do not want to have to take that crossover tube off.

Tom

Is this a factory header, or aftermarket?

Aftermarket. It had crappy long tubes on it before I put the BBK shorties. I have to assume the flange on these is thicker than stock. Bolt is threading in, I just can't turn it anymore and can't get a wrench on it.

Tom

You might have to use different bolt or install a stud then with the aftermarkt headers. They do have a thicker flange.

Also, I have taken an old wrench or purchase a cheap one and cut it down to size to fit in tight areas. Also, you loosen the motor mount bolts and jack/torqe the engine on one side of the oil pan to gain a little extra clearence. Just use a block of wood and a towl to protect the oil pan.

BrettT 93|03 wrote:You might have to use different bolt or install a stud then with the aftermarkt headers. They do have a thicker flange.

Also, I have taken an old wrench or purchase a cheap one and cut it down to size to fit in tight areas. Also, you loosen the motor mount bolts and jack/torqe the engine on one side of the oil pan to gain a little extra clearence. Just use a block of wood and a towl to protect the oil pan.

Like brett said try to modify your wrench. Not 100% sure for this specific bolt but I worked at a muffler shop a long time ago and we had many boxed end wrenches and sockets we ground the edges thin on to make work for header bolts.

The reason you can't do that is because, well, you can't do that. No way the smog pump to cat hard line can bolt to aftermarket headers without grinding the bracket and using some form of custom extended double studded header bolt.

Just attach the cat line to the upper air injection line to the back of the heads by twisting them together with coat hanger wire, like I did.



It's been like that for at least 17 years.

-MJS

Yeah, you'll have some serious problems trying to squeeze that 9/16" headed bolt in next to that header tube. Mike has the right idea. Just let it hang for the check valve above it

OK...I bought a shorty 9/16 wrench and was able to tighten the bolt down. The stock one did fit without issue. I would have to do some bending and whatnot to get the return pipe onto the other side of the bolt, so I did as Mike recommended for that. It looks like I just need to tighten up the rest of the exhaust and I am good to go!

Thanks for the info guys!

Tom