Aftermarket wheels on Cobra - optical illusion?

[93svt#2779]

I just swapped out my front rotors for GT rotors - I have the chrome after-market Cobra rims and they now fit perfectly just inside the front fender. I think they look perfect. Swapping out the rotors is a pretty simple job. New GT rotors, bearings and grease to pack the bearings, I put the Cobra rotors in the GT boxes and packed them away if I ever want to return to the stock rims. The backs look perfect as is.

pics please?[/quote]

I need to pick up a cheap camera and upgrade my laptop and learn how to post pics. I will try and get pictures soon.
It's about time I learn....[/quote]

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I know this post is a little old but I have a couple of questions. less than a month ago I purchased #2779. during service/ inspection of the front end and steering components I noticed that my front wheels are rubbing my lower control arm on the back side when the wheels are turned too sharp. (both sides same). my wheels and tires are the cobra correct size, so I think it might be the rotors. I think that someone before me might have replaced them with GT rotors. how would I be able to tell if this theory is correct. what's the difference and what's the best way to go about fixing it. don't want to be cheap, just want it right. all theories welcome... facts preferred! thanks in advance for your help.

[Romo93]

I just went out and measured my Cobra rotors and the "hat" is two inches. Take a rim off your car and measure the "hat" on your rotors and you will find out if you have GT rotors on or not. The GT rotors will have a much smaller hat than two inches. I don't feel like taking a rim off, but, I would guess the difference is about an inch in hat height between the two rotors.

Hope this answers your question...

You can also add a steering rack limiter and that will take any rubbing issues away as well.

[93svt#2779]

I just went out and measured my Cobra rotors and the "hat" is two inches. Take a rim off your car and measure the "hat" on your rotors and you will find out if you have GT rotors on or not. The GT rotors will have a much smaller hat than two inches. I don't feel like taking a rim off, but, I would guess the difference is about an inch in hat height between the two rotors.

Hope this answers your question...

You can also add a steering rack limiter and that will take any rubbing issues away as well.

Thanks Romo, that's exactly what I wanted. I have a clutch fork dust cover to install later today... while I have the car in the air, I will remove a tire and measure the rotors. I will let you know what I find out later. thanks again for your help

[Romo93]

I just went out and measured my Cobra rotors and the "hat" is two inches. Take a rim off your car and measure the "hat" on your rotors and you will find out if you have GT rotors on or not. The GT rotors will have a much smaller hat than two inches. I don't feel like taking a rim off, but, I would guess the difference is about an inch in hat height between the two rotors.

Hope this answers your question...

You can also add a steering rack limiter and that will take any rubbing issues away as well.

Thanks Romo, that's exactly what I wanted. I have a clutch fork dust cover to install later today... while I have the car in the air, I will remove a tire and measure the rotors. I will let you know what I find out later. thanks again for your help

No problem at all!!

I'll bet you have a pair of GT rotors on the car. Atleast it's an easy swap to return to the Cobra rotors.

[WillyB93]

I just went out and measured my Cobra rotors and the "hat" is two inches. Take a rim off your car and measure the "hat" on your rotors and you will find out if you have GT rotors on or not. The GT rotors will have a much smaller hat than two inches. I don't feel like taking a rim off, but, I would guess the difference is about an inch in hat height between the two rotors.

Hope this answers your question...

You can also add a steering rack limiter and that will take any rubbing issues away as well.

Thanks Romo, that's exactly what I wanted. I have a clutch fork dust cover to install later today... while I have the car in the air, I will remove a tire and measure the rotors. I will let you know what I find out later. thanks again for your help

No problem at all!!

I'd agree with Romo on this someone probably bought what was available. Most the time you have to order the correct rotors.

I'll bet you have a pair of GT rotors on the car. Atleast it's an easy swap to return to the Cobra rotors.

[93svt#2779]

Well I measured the hat on my rotors and it is right at 2". If that's the only difference in rotors then I have the correct ones. upon further inspection and measuring, it looks to me that the tires (both front) are set up with a "toe-out" just a bit. car drives straight so it didn't occur to me, but I think I'm in need of a proper alignment. hopefully that will fix it, and while its in, have shop look it over. They will know better than me, that's their job, I'm just a butcher!! I was just hoping it would be something I could fix... oh well. I guess an alignment is probably cheaper fix than new rotors. Thanks again guys and I'll let you know when I know what my problem is.

[Romo93]

Well I measured the hat on my rotors and it is right at 2". If that's the only difference in rotors then I have the correct ones. upon further inspection and measuring, it looks to me that the tires (both front) are set up with a "toe-out" just a bit. car drives straight so it didn't occur to me, but I think I'm in need of a proper alignment. hopefully that will fix it, and while its in, have shop look it over. They will know better than me, that's their job, I'm just a butcher!! I was just hoping it would be something I could fix... oh well. I guess an alignment is probably cheaper fix than new rotors. Thanks again guys and I'll let you know when I know what my problem is.

Wow, I really thought you had GT rotors on it.. Yes, an alighnment is cheaper for sure!

Good luck and hopefully alignment does the job.

[WillyB93]

Well I measured the hat on my rotors and it is right at 2". If that's the only difference in rotors then I have the correct ones. upon further inspection and measuring, it looks to me that the tires (both front) are set up with a "toe-out" just a bit. car drives straight so it didn't occur to me, but I think I'm in need of a proper alignment. hopefully that will fix it, and while its in, have shop look it over. They will know better than me, that's their job, I'm just a butcher!! I was just hoping it would be something I could fix... oh well. I guess an alignment is probably cheaper fix than new rotors. Thanks again guys and I'll let you know when I know what my problem is.

What size tire do you have then? These cars tend to have a camber issue, hence everyone putting caster camber plates up top. If it's not too bad you may be able to have it adjusted through the stock equipment on the car though.

[93svt#2779]

Rims are 17" x 7.5". the tires are Hankook 245/45ZR17. I believe these are correct?

[Z282SLO]

Rims are 17" x 7.5". the tires are Hankook 245/45ZR17. I believe these are correct?

Your wheel and tire size are stock.

[93svt#2779]

well I got the alignment... it needed it. tires were definitely "toed". but the shop insists that tires don't rub now. they say it must have been a different set of tires. Upper strut bushings are in need of replacement soon, along with the struts. sway bar bushings too!! oh yeah, and just about every other bushing on the car... ok, maybe I'm exaggerating but that's how it seems. I guess that's what you get when you buy a car with 160k miles on it! they suggested painting the shiny spots on my control arms to see if I'm still rubbing or not. one thing at a time! any suggestions on where to get or what kind of bushings are best would be appreciated... thanks guys

[Mike S.]

well I got the alignment... it needed it. tires were definitely "toed". but the shop insists that tires don't rub now. they say it must have been a different set of tires. Upper strut bushings are in need of replacement soon, along with the struts. sway bar bushings too!! oh yeah, and just about every other bushing on the car... ok, maybe I'm exaggerating but that's how it seems. I guess that's what you get when you buy a car with 160k miles on it! they suggested painting the shiny spots on my control arms to see if I'm still rubbing or not. one thing at a time! any suggestions on where to get or what kind of bushings are best would be appreciated... thanks guys

The wheels are what is contacting the backsides of the lower control arms if you hear/feel a slight grinding when at full lock. The solution is to install a travel restrictor clip on each side, in addition to the one on each side that should already be there. Pry the steel clamp on the boot open a bit, then pull the boot away from the rack, and you'll see the clip. Snap another next to it, and you're good to go. You can get the clips at the dealer, or from junk yard racks like I do. This will also make the already lousy Fox turning radius even worse, but it will take care of the rubbing.

As for the bushings, Use original Ford parts from the dealer whenever possible, or Moog or TRW, or something at least US made. Some of those bushings, like the sway bar, you can change yourself. But others, like front control arm, you probably shouldn't mess with without experience. I'm all for encouraging the DIY'er, but not if it can get them hurt.

-MJS

[93svt#2779]

I was looking at the polyurethane bushing kit from LMR (late model restoration) which you all probably knew! Are these good or bad? I want to have it done right with the right stuff. should I try to keep everything OEM or can I upgrade? all opinions welcome

[93svt#2779]

The wheels are what is contacting the backsides of the lower control arms if you hear/feel a slight grinding when at full lock. The solution is to install a travel restrictor clip on each side, in addition to the one on each side that should already be there. Pry the steel clamp on the boot open a bit, then pull the boot away from the rack, and you'll see the clip. Snap another next to it, and you're good to go. You can get the clips at the dealer, or from junk yard racks like I do. This will also make the already lousy Fox turning radius even worse, but it will take care of the rubbing.

As for the bushings, Use original Ford parts from the dealer whenever possible, or Moog or TRW, or something at least US made. Some of those bushings, like the sway bar, you can change yourself. But others, like front control arm, you probably shouldn't mess with without experience. I'm all for encouraging the DIY'er, but not if it can get them hurt.

-MJS[/quote]

Thanks for the advice and tips mike. I need it!

[Romo93]

Just keep plugging away and she will drive like new when you get done!!